I'm new to this, having got Dixie Dooley's DVDs a few days ago, but I thought I'd share something. I may not be the first to think of this, but when I went to buy a chain to make my own "German Transport Chain," I couldn't find an easy way to put on the rings. I don't have an arc-welder, and I would probably burn my eyeballs out if I did (if that's even what you'd use). I ended up buying anchor shackles and a moderate-size chain, small enough to fit snugly around my wrists, but big enough to look very solid.

What I found was, after I got used to looking at them, the anchor shackles look much better than simple rings. They're sturdy, old-fashioned and oddly suggestive of a restraining device, as opposed to something off of a canine choke-chain. And the best part is, though they have a bolt that screws in through the open, squared off end (they're like a rounded horshoe with a screw bolt through the open end), this bolt can be secured with loc-tite (or super-glue) and made more or less permanent. But because there is a bolt, it's a great piece of misdirection--the few people I've done this for immediately want to examine the bolts and think its gimmicked. Something about it seems much more sneaky than simple hoops, in my opinion. Yet they look redolent of tiny darby cuffs, in a way, creating the effect of something more than they are.

Just thought I'd pass that along. It's a pretty cheap way to set up your own Siberian Chain Escape with a different, and in my opinion, classier look.

Thanks for the response!

One thing I've noticed in using the shackles is (and this probably depends on the chain) it helps to know what the optimal position for the second shackle is at "address" (by that I mean when you slide the chain through the first loop and tighten it to your wrist). This is because the shackle is not round, so it can sometimes be in an awkward position after you wrap the chain if not positioned "correctly" (which will sometimes be a different angle, I'm sure, for different chains), rather than sticking out nice and prominently for the spectator to loop the end of the chain through it. I've found this is easily overcome by just a few moments of trial and error, and now I've got it where it routinely is in the proper position right off the bat just by knowing how it should ideally be facing at address. I thought this might be helpful to anyone who tries it.

The anchor shackles I got were stainless steel at Home Depot, on the same aisle as the chains, and cost about three bucks and change apiece. They come in a number of sizes.

I'm glad I could be of help!

The Siberian Chain Escape is similar to a chain cuff that was used in Germany, long ago. The problem is that most of these chains that are on the market are of poor quality - most versions have me shaking my head. I know that Mark Cannon sells a really nice one.

Actually, a good one can be had for $29, with the padlock included. No split key rings are used - only solid links. I'd rather use one that's made specifically for the purpose. It's not like I wouldn't recover the cost from my performances.

A great one can be had for about two bucks at a dollar store. It's called a dog "choke Chain." It's the ideal size, and the loops and chain look great. All you need do is open a loop with pliers, put the chain through, then bend it back into the loop shape. A million times better than the cheap looking commercial variety available at magic shops. And a LOT cheaper!!

You can find a variety of cheap alternatives for this, as long as you know what to look for and how it works.