The FISM Grand Prix winner's reputation making card routine. https://t.co/oVIjO..
Asked at 08:05pm on October 28th, 2013 by standup44 (52 karma)
There are two things that I suggest looking at before you decide to use invisible thread.
1 - Who are you performing for (some people that are 'grabbers' or hecklers are probably not the best people to be doing thread magic for)
2 - Where you are performing. Not only your lighting conditions but also how busy it is. The last thing you need is for someone to talk through and break the thread when you are making something float!
The three previous answers seem to sum up some basics. I will just add a philosophical point about "Thread work." When magicians decide to get serious about coin magic they generally commit themselves to a lot of practice. The same is true about magicians who get serious about cards. They dedicate practice time, mirror time, rehearsal time, and practice in front of your brain trust(friends, family, and fellow magicians who will give you constructive feedback.) For some reason this often gets ignored by people who learn thread magic(Loops and IT reels.) Often threads are seen as just another gimmick. New magicians assume that thread miracles should be as easy to master as learning the Pen-Through-Dollar or the Self Tying Shoelace.
Underestimating the work involved in mastering thread work leads to most of the problems people have with thread. Quit thinking of it as a "gimmick" and start thinking of it as a different specialty in sleight of hand. People dedicate years to mastering difficult card and coin moves. Imagine how good your magic would look if you dedicated a year to mastering your favorite levitating ring effect!
Some Good Links:
Michael Ammar's Thread DVDs: http://www.penguinmagic.com/search.php?q=Michael+Ammar+-+Easy+to+Master+Thread+Miracles
Sorcery Thread reels: http://www.penguinmagic.com/search.php?q=sorcery+reel
Magic Belay’s Centrifugal: http://www.penguinmagic.com/p/2502
If you want some more advanced thread material I would recommend Invisible by Damien Savina: http://www.penguinmagic.com/p/3472
For Loops check out Loops Complete DVD with 20 loops by Yigal Mesika: http://www.penguinmagic.com/p/2431
1) Choose the background: never use black background because the black has no reflection while the thread has a bit of reflection and it will be visible to the audience. So choose a blue,green or red background. In Yigal Mesika and Finn John - Reflection DVD they use also white background for Invisible Thread.
If you can't change the background (for example you're in a restaurant so you can't paint the wall :D) the background are YOU! If you use Loops or small pieces of thread like the John LeClair Hoockup or also the standard hoockup is good you have to be carefull of you clothing. Never wear black, but again, you can wear green, blue, red and grey but NEVER white clothes! Because is the background is white the audience won't see the thread, but if you wear withe clothing they will see the thread because the thread is near the clothing.
2) Lighting: NEVER have the light behind you, the light in front of you is the best. If you can't have the light in front of you because it's on the back you can use your body to create shadow and use the tread in that space of shadow (i use my body as a wall a lot).
3)Type of the thread. NEVER use white thread (you can find some white elastic "invisible" thread on the market, in this case you can paint it with a black marker but the thread will be more weak. My advice is to buy a black thread). Use black thread, and for extreme lighting situation use a dark blue thread.
The best invisible elastic threads are the Mesika's, Infinity Thread V2 and the Legacy Thread. All are availabe at Penguinmagic (I use the Infinity V2)
If you use static thread (not elastic one) i recommend to you to buy a spool of Wooly Nylon and you will have much thread for the rest of your life. If you need a very very very very strong thread you can go for The Vectra Line by Steve Fearson.
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